Wild Ozark: Where Madison Woods paints with Ozark pigments … and talks to rocks, creeks, and trees.

Bone Black

A sample drawing made with fresh bone black watercolor paint.

I made bone black, from a cow vertebra that I charred inside a small tin inside the wood stove. Previously I’d used charred wood from hickory and oak. It has been a difficult paint to re-wet and it never reached the depth of black I wanted. It was also grainier than I liked. The charred bone worked great!

A historical color, the blackest of blacks

Bone black has been a thing since the very early history of mankind. Charcoal from wood has always been more convenient and served well enough for most needs. But like me, someone somewhere must have need a deeper black than they could get from charred wood. Here’s a link to a little more info about that from Pigments Through the Ages website.http://www.webexhibits.org/pigments/indiv/recipe/boneblack.html

I’m not sure what that last line in the 19th century recipe means, but I may need to rinse the pigment before making the paint. We’ll see what happens. I didn’t find that link until writing this post, and I had already made the paint before that. Maybe for the next batch I’ll try it.

The process for making bone black

First I broke the bone into small enough pieces to fit inside the tin. The ashes from yesterday’s fire still occupied the stove. Too much air causes the bone to burn rather than char. Burying it under ashes inside the tin helps with that. Then I built the fire over it and let it burn down.

Charred bone for bone black handmade watercolor Paleo Paint. Fresh out of the wood stove. The bones were cleaned and thoroughly dry before charring.
Fresh out of the wood stove. The bones were cleaned and thoroughly dry before charring.

The charred bones were a lot lighter and easier to break down in the mortar than they were before. The bones were really difficult to break into small enough pieces to fit inside the tin. But afterward, the crushing was a breeze.

It’s still a very messy color to make. The powder floats into the air just as much as the charred wood does, so wear a dust mask if you make this. Or have a fan blowing the dust away from you. Just don’t put the fan too close, or you’ll blow your pigment out of the screen.

Once I had it crushed as fine as I could do with the mortar and pestle, I sifted the powder through a 200-mesh screen.

I sifted all I could through the screen, and put the difficult bits back into the mortar. Then and repeated the sifting process. After that was done, I put the more difficult bits into a small jar and added enough of the watercolor media to cover it plus some. I’ll strain that later and use the fluid to either make a sheer black or add it to the next fine sifted powder on the mulling board to see if it intensifies the black any.

Alternative Method:

Nowadays, I would just wash the pigment once I’d crushed it as fine as possible in the mortar. This method takes longer, but produces a finer paint. Put it in a jar, cover with water, shake and then let settle.

Once the water has clarified, pour out the water, keep the sediment. Let the sediment dry and go through the mortar/pestle again. Wash again the same way, except this time KEEP the water.

Let it settle for a few seconds. The larger pieces will fall to the bottom, and all of the fine pigment will still be in the water. Pour the water into another jar and let it settle. Keep the sediment and let it dry out again, grind again, and keep repeating the process until you’ve ground all that will grind.

I use several 4-oz jars for the colored water, and consolidate the sediment to the one with the most pigment when I pour off the clarified water after it’s settled for a few days. I usually only end up with a single 4-oz jar of sediment to put in the dehydrator to dry out.

The paint

Charred bone for bone black handmade watercolor Paleo Paint. Fresh out of the wood stove. The bones were cleaned and thoroughly dry before charring.
Bone black on the mulling board. Such a nice smooth black!
A swatch of bone black.

Once it dried, it doesn’t ‘smear’ when I rub on it – which is a good thing! It is a flat black, not glossy, but it’s exactly what I need to finish up my red-shouldered hawk painting.

A little slide-show presentation about making Bone Black.


Contact & About

email: madison@wildozark.com

phone: (479) 409-3429

The newsletter is monthly. My blog is sporadic, so if you want the posts to go to your inbox, put your email address below. Blog posts and newsletters aren’t always the same (very rarely are the same), so it won’t hurt to subscribe to both 🙂

Join 418 other subscribers

I’m a nature-lover, real estate agent & artist. Sometimes, I also write things. I began using local pigments to paint scenes from nature in the Ozarks in 2018.

If you’re interested in buying or selling in rural northwest AR, get in touch with me by phone, text, or email. I’m happy to help! I have a separate website for my real estate blogging and information at WildOzarkLand.com.

All of my artwork is available in prints, and where originals are available, they are for sale. You can find all of that over at shop.WildOzark.com.

Call me “Roxann” or “Madison”, either one works.

For pretty much everything online, I go by Madison Woods, a pen name I adopted when I first began writing and then later with my art. For real estate, I use my real name, Roxann Riedel. And for my fiction, there’s yet another pen name: Ima Erthwitch.

Comments

2 responses to “Bone Black”

  1. […] I’ll update with pics of the rest of the process as I can. In the meantime, here’s my old post on making bone black. […]

  2. […] paint making experiment was with a using charred bone to make black paint. Today’s is on how to make the suspended particles of clay settle out of the […]

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

2
0
Would love your thoughts, please comment.x
()
x